Tuesday, 19 January 2016

Walls of Jerusalem ~ Part 2: There and Back Again



The first night at camp passed without quite enough sleep – the pillow I had brought wasn’t really up to the job, the camping platform was dry but very hard, and I had been a bit too cold but also a bit too lazy to move and get an extra layer on.

I still didn’t feel too bad though, and was excited to explore further into the park with a day of hiking ahead of us. Getting up and dressed and boiling water for brews and freeze-dried fruity porridge, I also took the chance to chat to our neighbours again for information about the walks available to us in our time frame. Going over the map together we identified a few possibilities that were good for day hikes.

Taking map and compass, brew kit, lunch, snacks, warm gear and wet weather gear with us, we set off for the day. We continued on the trail we had followed to the camp site as it wound its way deeper into the park. A short uphill section to leave the camping area behind, and we were passing Herod's Gate and once again on more level ground in the central basin. The track here was a combination on board walk and natural path, and in the clear fine weather navigation was no trouble at all.



Passing more beautiful scenery of towering rock walls and picturesque tarns, our first little stop was to take a short detour off the main path to see the Pool of Bethesda. This would have been a glorious spot for lunch or even just a brew, but as we had not been walking long at all by this point we decided instead to push on before taking a proper break.

The Pool of Bethesda


Not much further along the boardwalk and we were at Damascus Gate, the saddle between Solomon’s Throne and The Temple. I had expected it to take much longer to reach this point, so we thought we might tackle one of these side tracks on the return.

Walking up to the saddle


Continuing through the saddle, the path passed through some more stunning scenery and beautiful tarns, before winding its way amongst gnarled trees and then depositing us in the vivid green beauty of Dixon’s Kingdom, another camping area on the trail.



Dixon’s Kingdom has its own historic hut too, although camping is not allowed in the hut itself. The landscape, the flora, and the hyper-real greenness of this place give it the feel of Tolkien’s Shire, and you almost expect to see Hobbits running for cover as you approach.



A fallen tree in the shade here gives us another perfect spot to sit and put the brews on, so we use the facilities here and have our first break. I try to read a bit on my Kindle as I sip my tea, but my gaze is constantly drawn back up to drink in our magical surroundings.

Rest time over, we continue along the path towards Mount Jerusalem. The track up to the summit is signed off the main track, and then marked with triangular markers on metal posts every so often. The track climbs through the rocky ground, until it starts to traverse another plateau area peppered with the most beautiful little tarns. Every angle produces another photo-worthy view, and these little lakes scattered around at different levels are simply beautiful.






Pausing frequently to absorb the new vistas that each turn of the track reveals, we eventually make it to the next uphill section. We follow the rocky path all the way to the top of Mount Jerusalem, and are greeted by views of the wilderness as far as the eye can see. Simply spectacular. We take a lot of time at the top just to marvel at this expanse of nature, and to dream of having the time and gear to be able to go off exploring for a few days. 



We can also see the track continuing into the park beyond where we left it to summit Mount Jerusalem, and I can’t help wishing that we were going to carry on further after descending. 



Easily finding a suitable spot for lunch, we fire up the Jetboil for more brews and tuck in to our supermarket lunches. I have opted for a readymade pot of pasta and veggies in a tomato sauce. Securely packaged and not requiring refrigeration, I had thought this would be a good option. You are meant to microwave it before eating, but the sun has warmed it a bit. That’s the same thing, surely?? I have a handful of my dried fruit mix and cashews as ‘desert’, and the hot sweet tea with this incredible view is just perfect.

A brew with a view ;)


Reluctantly, we of course have to leave this little spot and return to camp. The walk back down is trickier for me than the ascent as I get painful knees and my injured ankle is not yet fully mobile. Taking my time it’s nothing I can’t handle, and we get back to the main track and turn back towards Dixon’s Kingdom again. From there, we are at Damascus Gate again in no time. Knowing we are an easy walk back to camp, we decide to drop our kit and head up The Throne before continuing back.

The path up here is made mostly from large loose rocks that have been shifted to offer flat, level sides to your boots. It really is remarkable to think of the work that has gone in to making these defined, stable paths out of the loose rock piles up the side.

The view from The Throne


By the time we get to the top on this occasion, I am starting to feel a bit tired, so after admiring the views we head back down again and collect our gear, then hit the boardwalk back to camp.



On the walk back we encounter our first mammalian wildlife inside the Walls – apart from the possums that were scratching around our tent last night – in the extremely fluffy shape of these Bennet’s Wallabies. They look so cuddly to me with their soft shaggy fur. Gorgeous :)

Boots off, dinner on. Perfect :)


That night I improved the pillow situation by folding it in half and wrapping my microfiber towel around it to keep it doubled up, I wear an extra jumper along with my hat, gloves, socks and PJs, and suck it up that the ground is hard. I sleep great and wake up raring to go – if a little achy. I also had my next significant wildlife encounter on the way back from the loo, this handsome snake on the path. Fortunately I saw him in time to stop without getting too close, and the snake glided off the path to bask in the short grass nearby.



This is our final day in the Park, so we try to make the most of it by heading back to Damascus Gate to walk up Solomon’s Throne. The hike up is steep and rocky, but the views from the top are very much worth it. Spectacular.



The view to King David's Peak


I long to walk further along the ridge to the top of King David’s Peak, but it’s not sensible to do this with the walk out still ahead of us, so reluctantly we descend again and return to camp. Here, we make lunch and then pack up our camp and leave. Making use of the toilet one last time, we have yet another brilliant wildlife encounter in the prickly form of this cute little echidna snuffling around the path.



The walk out is as picturesque as it was on the way in, and I feel a little sad to be leaving so soon. 



I definitely plan to return!

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