Zarafshan and Iskanderkul

The second free weekend we had in Tajikistan saw us travelling further afield than last time, about 140km (approx. 87 miles) to Iskanderkul in the Fann Mountains. This might not sound a huge distance, but given the conditions of Tajik roads it is no mean feat.

Map from Google Maps. The pointer is at Iskanderkul

Rachel had organised things once again, and we had mini buses with drivers, a place to stay, and one of our local associates from Dushanbe had come along to help translate.

The roads were in poor shape much of the time, and the minibuses were not much better maintained, making for a long journey. Further delays had the potential to be more entertaining though, such as getting stuck in many traffic jams consisting mainly of sheep and goats!

The views from the window as we drove were fantastic.

The overheating minibus meant that we got to enjoy some of the views from outside too, as we waited for the engine to cool down from dangerously hot…

The further we got from the city, the more frequent were these tiny stone-built dwellings. Very quaint and picturesque to us as visitors, but can you imagine having to actually live there? Especially in the harsh snowy winters Tajikistan gets. The poverty here is something I have never experienced before, and while many in the group don’t seem to think about it, I find it very sobering.

After a long day of driving, we come to the Zarafshan Valley in north-west Tajikistan, in a mountainous region containing many mountain ranges (Zarafshan Range, Turkestan Range, Hisar range, Gissar Range, the Fann Mountains…)

ЗEраBшaн = Zeravshan

The floor of this glacial valley is dotted with more tiny stone houses, and the Zerafshan River snakes along the bottom.

Following the valley a while longer, we eventually reach our destination. The newly-built 2 storey wooden cabin is the pride and joy of its owner, and although I can’t understand his dialect it is written large in the proud welcoming smile on his face as he shows us around. The others are not impressed with the food that has been provided, but having witnessed evidence of the poverty in this country I am impressed and grateful at the thoughtful spread of Tajik sweets and fruits that await us. When the main dish is served, it is a traditional Plov cooked up in a homemade cauldron in the small kitchen at the top of the garden path. In poorer countries meat is often both prized and scarce, so while others again complain about portions I am again grateful. Not only for the food and the enthusiastic service, but also for the chance to sample genuine traditional cuisine from the region. 

After food there are just a few daylight hours remaining, so Rachel and I decide to go for an explore. Following the river away from the road, we enjoy the peace that the remoteness brings.

Soon we come to a bridge across the river, which we decide to take.

The field we find ourselves in contains this slightly rundown shepherding complex, with shelter for the animals and their human protectors.

We continue up a narrow track climbing the valley side, and keep going until we risk running out of time. We do stop for a short while, to absorb the view and to discuss the different travelling philosophies in the group (Rachel’s and mine are very similar) and to talk about the region and its culture, and the charm of the guesthouse we are staying at.

Then we must head back down so that we can get back before dark. Our sleeping area is simply the open-plan upstairs of the guest house, but it is surprisingly warm and cosy. There are no beds, instead we are each provided with sleeping rolls. I think they are made of felt, and while they don’t look like much my goodness they were comfy! I loved my sleeping roll :)

I get to see some wildlife too – someone knows I am keen on nature, and rushes to tell me about the huge moth in the bathroom. It’s beautiful, and bigger than my hand, but sadly something eats it during the night and by morning nothing is left but a few pieces of wings…

We only have a 2 day weekend here, so the next day we must return to Dushanbe. But not before our main excursion into the Fann Mountains, and the popular Iskanderkul Lake, named after Alexander the Great. 

We walk around the lake a bit, and follow a path along its outflow, Iskander Darya, which eventually joins up with the Zerafshan River we saw the previous day.

This turquoise coloured mountain lake lies at an altitude of 2,195 metres and is fed by glaciers, so when we return to its shores and go for a swim it is bloody cold! So cold that my body aches, and I can’t stand the pain for long so after a brief swim around I am out of there.

We all want to stay here longer, and several of us petition to be allowed to travel further, to the ancient town of Panjikent near the border with Uzbekistan. Unfortunately though we have work the next day, and the drivers are insistent that we must leave in time to return before dark. Having seen the state of some of the roads we know that this is sensible, and reluctantly we return to our vehicles for the trip home.

This trip has been far too brief, but very special.